Rewiring a house in Dallas-Fort Worth typically runs $6.50–$12.40 per square foot: about $9,750–$18,600 for a 1,500 sq ft home and $16,250–$31,000 for 2,500 sq ft, including wire, devices, panel work, permit and inspection. It is an estimate, quoted in writing after we see the house.
This guide is part of our Electrical Repair service in Dallas–Fort Worth.
Rewiring a house in Dallas-Fort Worth typically runs $6.50–$12.40 per square foot. That is about $9,750–$18,600 for a 1,500 sq ft home and $16,250–$31,000 for 2,500 sq ft, including the copper wire, new outlets and switches, panel work, the permit and the final inspection. It is an estimate: access, panel condition and device count move it, so the price is quoted in writing after we see the house.
Rewiring cost by home size
| Home size | Typical installed cost (estimate) |
|---|---|
| 1,000 sq ft | $6,500 – $12,400 |
| 1,500 sq ft | $9,750 – $18,600 |
| 2,000 sq ft | $13,000 – $24,800 |
| 2,500 sq ft | $16,250 – $31,000 |
| 3,000 sq ft | $19,500 – $37,200 |
Most of the cost is labor: pulling new cable through walls, the attic and any crawl space, then terminating every circuit correctly at the devices and the panel. If the panel itself has to be replaced, that part typically runs $2,200–$4,800 for a 100-amp to 200-amp change (panel upgrades).
What moves the price
- Access. An open attic or crawl space is fast. Finished ceilings, slab foundations and two stories mean more fishing and more access holes to patch.
- Panel condition. If the panel is a Federal Pacific Stab-Lok or a Zinsco, we include replacing it in the rewire quote rather than landing new circuits on it.
- Device count. More outlets, switches, recessed lights and ceiling fans mean more boxes and terminations.
- Wall construction. Drywall is quick to patch. Plaster and lath is slower to cut and restore.
- Permit and inspection. Inside city limits a rewire is permitted and inspected, and each city sets its own fees and schedule. Our permit guide explains how it works.
Signs your wiring should be evaluated
- Cloth-sheathed cable. The rubber insulation under the cloth can become brittle with age and heat.
- Two-prong outlets. They mean the circuit has no equipment ground. Existing ones can stay, but a replacement has to follow NEC 406.4(D): ground it, or protect it with a GFCI and label it.
- Aluminum branch wiring, installed in many homes built roughly 1965–1973. The CPSC recommends permanent repair at every connection or replacement with copper (CPSC Publication 516). See our aluminum wiring guide.
- Knob-and-tube wiring, found mainly in houses built before about 1930.
- Breakers that trip often, lights that flicker, or outlets and switch plates that run warm. See breaker keeps tripping and lights flickering.
Not every older house needs a full rewire. Sometimes the right job is a handful of circuits, a panel, or remediating aluminum connections. The evaluation tells you which. For how long a full rewire takes and what living through one is like, see the rewire timeline guide.
Get a written rewire price for your home.
Flat-rate written quote, permit and inspection included.
Rewiring cost FAQs
In Dallas-Fort Worth, typically $9,750–$18,600, or $6.50–$12.40 per square foot. That covers copper wiring, new outlets and switches, panel work, the permit and inspection. It is an estimate, quoted in writing after an on-site look.
Usually. New cable is fished through the attic, any crawl space and existing stud cavities, with small access holes that are patched afterward. Larger openings are needed mainly in plaster homes, or where there is no attic or crawl space access.
Roughly 5–8 business days for a 1,500 sq ft single-story home and 8–14 for about 2,500 sq ft, longer for larger or two-story homes. The rewire timeline guide has the detail.
Generally not as a preventive upgrade. Insurers can ask about wiring type when they write or renew a policy, though, so ask your carrier what they need to see before you choose between a repair and a full rewire.
It depends on the house and the market. Old wiring is usually flagged in the buyer's inspection, so you either fix it or expect it in the negotiation. A pre-listing evaluation tells you which problems are real and what they cost, which is useful either way.
